After releasing Diamant targeting rather generous breasts, I wanted to propose a pattern for modest ones.
Bohème… has been running in my head for long!
I had so many ideas that I had to take time to chose which variation I would propose.
My first idea was, as you might have guessed, a triangle bra… but you can also sew nightdress variation.
I have to admit a fast and easily sewn triangle bra pattern was missing in Étoffe Malicieuse’s collection.
Now, the job is done! I’m very glad to present Bohème to you:
PDF Patterns available from 70AA to 110D
No need to read twice: Bohème was actually graduated both in underbust size and cup size!
Available sizes therefore range from 70AA, 70A, 70B, 70C, 70D, 80AA, 80A, 80B, 80C, 80D… and so on up to 110AA, 110A, 110B, 110C et 110D.
The question “Up to what size should I go?” has been running in my mind for weeks.
Cupsize D appeared to me as the maximum for a triangle bra, that was the starting point for the work.
Howeever, while testing the pattern on different body shapes, it occured to that Bohème, in its big size variations, didn’t fit very well to breasts “going sideways”. As a matter of fact, the triangle cups didn’t guide the bra firmly enough to the center.
If you’re looking for a upholding bra pattern, you’re wasting your time, Bohème is not for you. On the contrary, if you want a light summer nightdress, or you have breast that doesn’t need much lifting, then Bohème is a good start. As a matter of fact it’s easier to assemble than an underwire and side bone bra. Making it you can get familiar with primary lace sewing techniques.
Using this measuring method, you’ll even be able to cut two cups of different sizes. This is real “sur-mesure”.
As usual, the patterns embed the layer system making it possible for you to chose the very size you need.
You can print the pattern with or without seam allowance.
Everything has been designed carefully so that you can really enjoy making it!
As you can see below, Bohème offers many possibilities.
To start with, you can choose :
Then you can choose the lower part of the bra:
Are you ready for the show?
Evrey photograph was shot by Guillaume Estève. He’s a photographer from Uzès (in the Gard). A big thank you to you Guillaume for your wonderful pictures. They showcase my creation so well!
Bohème: rounded back version
I’ll start with this variation because I must confess it’s my favorite one! I love this rounded shape that embellish nicely the back.
It showcases the shoulders and is very pleasant to wear thanks to the “swimmer back”.
Bohème is presented here along with Tralala.
The cups are simple triangles. In the guide, I explain different ways to assemble them.
With this version, I chose to sew a simple elastic strip under the cups.
It’s a golden elastic which matches very well with white lace.
I wanted to propose kits, unfortunately this kind of elastic is not that comfortable to wear: it’s not soft enough. As far as I’m concerned, it’s not a big deal but I don’t like it enough to embed it in kits.
Bohème: triangle back version
This version was sewn with a fabric strip under the cups. This fabric repeat at the top emphasizes its belonging to a matching set along with the panties.
The cups are made of foam covered with fabric. The edges are decorated with lace. I’ll explain this variant in another tutorial : it’s not mentioned in the provided guide.
I have many ideas of tutorials for Bohème!
Bohème and the malicious panty together.
The magical with homemade underwear (apart from adapting it to your body shape) is that you can chose what you’ll wear down: in the shops you won’t always find the set you’re dreaming of. By sewing it yourself you’ll make it exactly as you wish!
Bohème with the panties Promesse.
For the anecdote, the young woman posing has a tattoo right below the back triangle. We had to spread several layers of face powder to hide it and leave the lace express!
The triangle back is perfect for summer tops with uncovered shoulders like “swimmer” sleeveless tee-shirts. No more visible straps!
Bohème: lace ribbon version
This version has simple straps and a wide lace ribbon under the breast.
When you have nice lace, you want to enjoy it as much as possible. This variation of Bohème displays the openwork pattern all around the body.
As you can see, Bohème matches very well with Caresse high waist panties.
Obviously, it’s very easy to widen or shrink the ribbon width according to your liking.
However, I chose the one provided with the pattern to be wide enough to showcase the lace patterns and thin enough so that it won’t go up when wearing it.
The small fishnet triangle of Caresse repeat the top of the lace. It makes the opaque panty fabric a bit lighter.
This version of Bohème (with simple straps) is the fastest to sew: you only need a few hours to get your new bra!
Bohème: rectangle back and night dress version
Let’s change of shade with this lighter version of Bohème.
A little top for night or to wear under a blouse… we’r halfway between underwear en ready-to-wear.
Bohème with the panty Plume.
Do you like the heartshape sliders ?
In the guide, you’ll find the explanation to make the night dress version. You only need to shorten the straps to get a “top” version.
The rectangle shaped back makes this version very feminine. It also quite original. And, once, more, it will enable you to wear sleeveless tee-shirts without making straps visible.
It displays nicely the scalloped edge lace.
Bohème with the panty Plume.
As you’ve seen along this post, you can enjoy matching different patterns.
With all these variations, Bohème will make its way very fast into your dressing-room!
If you already know the Étoffe Malicieuse’s patterns and you’re eager to sew Bohème, you only need to click the button below:
If you’re not used to Étoffe Malicieuse’s patterns specificities, you should read this:
What you’ll get when downloading your pattern
1) An interactive user guide showing many digital schemas (click HERE to learn more)
You’ll also learn how to use patterns with layers, how to set your printer…
2) The pattern in an A4/US letter format PDF that you can print at home.
The size lines are made of different colors but also different patterns: you can print them B&W without any problem!
What’s fun with digital files is that as soon as you order them, you can print them and sew right away!
Don’t worry: for underwear, you only need to print a few pages.
The pattern embeds layers making it possible to choose precisely which size you want to print.
The pattern can be printed with or without seam allowance: thanks to the layer system, you choose what you want to print!
If you need to know more about the Étoffe Malicieuse’s patterns specificities, you can read this article on my blog.
3) A lace cutting method sheet
4) A “dealing with fabric elasticity” method sheet
5) A “How to make a tie with lace?” method sheet
You’ll only need a standard sewing machine (making zigzag stitches or better stretch stitches) to sew underwears.
The assembling instructions were written to be as clear as possible. They’ll guide you step by step with many illustrations making it possible for you to sew your first bra/night dress, even if you’re a starter.
Bohème should be sewn with stretch fabric. There are many options:
thin lycra, elastic tulle, cotton jersey, stretch lace…
The fabric you choose should have about 40% elasticity in both directions.
On every version of Bohème you’ve just discovered, the lace I used is stretch lace.
You should also consider setting a scrap of coton jersey aside for the crotch lining if you want to sew assorted panties.
The patterns have been tested, the explanations were read and read again…
A big thank you to my wonderful testing team (among which some underwear sewing novices are hiding and they met the challenge! Well done girls!)
Don’t forget to use hashtags #patronboheme, #patronetoffemalicieuse on Instagram so that I can see your makings.
Every month, I choose one of your phots shared on Instagram with #etoffemalicieuse and give a free pattern to the chosen one.
Have a nice day!