Bohème [Tutorial : Sewing a foam cup]

Bohème [Tutorial : Sewing a foam cup]

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Hello everyone,

Here it is, here it is, the long awaited tutorial to sew Boheme with foam cups.;-)

I had already written about it when the pattern came out, so… a long time ago… and many of you asked me about it again. So I am happy to finally introduce it to you!

I have prepared a photo tutorial for you, with links to Youtube videos.

List of material for the cups

For the cups, you will need cut and sew foam. I use the one that is in the Etoffe Malicieuse store, which has the advantage of being suitable for swimsuits.

Which means, that Boheme can be declined in a foam swimsuit top.

Yet another possibility for this pattern 😉

For the fabric, you can use whatever you want (stretch or not), as long as the fabric is not too thick of course. You can use your Liberty scraps that you didn’t dare to throw away: indeed, very little material is needed to sew Boheme.

Cutting the pieces

Cut the cups as shown:

(The color codes in the diagrams above are those given in the explanations of your Boheme pattern).

Here’s what you get:


Start by assembling the foam cups.

Here is the link (click on the image below) to watch the small video that will show you how to sew a foam cup:

Here’s what you get (for now, don’t zig-zag around the cups as shown in the video):

Now, the fabric’s cup pieces.

Pin right side to right side each middle cup with the corresponding side cup.:

Stitch (you can use a straight stitch):

Here’s what you get:

Trim the seam allowance at the top of the tip so that it is perfect :

Pin the fabric cup to the foam cup (wrong side of the fabric against the foam) :

Position withe care the fabric cup’s seam against the foam cup’s seam (unfold to check as you pin):

Stitch with a straight stitch on the cup side, 2-3 mm from the cup assembly seam :

Here is a close-up so that you can better visualize :

Pin all the way around the cup, taking care to stretch the fabric on the foam:

Stitch with a zig-zag stitch all around the cup : this allows to flatten the foam and fix foam and fabric together to facilitate the future construction steps :

Here’s what you get:

Cut fold-over elastic lengths :

For the middle cup the length of the fold-over elastic is equal to the length of the cup.

For the side cup, the length of the fold-over elastic should be about 4 cm longer than the length of the cup:

Sew the fold-over elastic on the middle cup. For this, you can help yourself with the following video (click on the image):

Here’s what you get:

Then stitch the fold-over elastic on the side of the cup, letting it go beyond over the tip of the cup:

If you chose the single straps’ version, the rest is below.

If not, simply fold the free fold-over elastic end over the back of the cup and sew it with a satin stitch. You can then follow the instructions provided with the Boheme pattern.

Single straps’ variant

Thread a ring over the part of the bias that is left free:

Fold the free fold-over elastic bit backwards to trap the ring:

Stitch with the satin stitch (you can also cut the excess fold-over elastic on the back of the cup):

Proceed in the same way for the second cup, here is what you get:

Thread an slider on your shoulder strap (length of the straps given in the Boheme explanations according to the desired version):

Stitch a satin stitch to hold the slider in place :

Pass the strap through the ring at the tip of the cup:

Thread again the strap in the slider:

There you go, your foam cups are finished! You just have to follow the end of the instructions of Bohème to finish your bra.

Feel free to share your creations on social networks with the #patronboheme #etoffemalicieuse. I’m always delighted to discover your beautiful projects!

For those who would like to find the Boheme pattern, he can be found here :

Have a nice day !

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